Runmarö

Thus, on the late morning of Thursday 20 August 2026, I jetted out of Edinburgh, bound for Stockholm. Arriving at lunchtime, I pushed relentlessly through a carefully planned series of transport stages from the airport express train to metro and eventually onto a public bus which took about an hour to head west from Stockholm centre to Stavsnӓs which was to be my jumping off point.

On arriving in Stavsnӓs, I liaised with a kayak hire company there who I had communicated with by email before the trip. My urgency to reach there before 1700 hours was to buy camping gas, the only thing I couldn’t bring on the plane. Having bought a couple of good-sized cylinders, I then put the packraft and gear together, filled up with water and I was ready for the off.

The sun was shining and there was no reason to wait, despite the slightly bemused looks on the faces of the kayak centre staff. They were however extremely pleasant and helpful and are clearly a well-equipped, professional outfit. They can cater for individuals or groups of all experience levels and can provide all the kit necessary for a trip. Check them out online at TheKayakTrail.

It was only about a mile and a bit across the strait to my first port of call, the island of Runmarö. This is one of the larger islands in the archipelago and a good starting point, especially as it hosts one of the sections of the Stockholm Archipelago Trail (SAT). I enjoyed the paddle across in light wind and very little chop, making it across in about 45 minutes.

Following advice, I paddled into the bay to the south of the main settlement and landed on a small sandy beach. The property immediately adjacent was clearly private but unoccupied, as are many once the main summer season is over. There were few, if any, other options and there was no-one about, so I quickly shifted all of my gear up onto the porch of a wooden sauna building adjacent to the water on the far edge of the property.

There was forecasted light rain overnight and the porch provided some shelter for me to bivy on the wooden decking. All a bit naughty but it was getting late and I took a chance, which paid off as it turns out. In any event, no trace left as you would expect.

It was great to sleep out, and the rain came to very little in the end with the next morning  due to be dry and brighter.

I was awake at first light, consumed a few calories then prepared myself mentally and otherwise for the first run of the trip, the approximately ten-mile section of the SAT.

I changed into my running kit and made my way up towards the main track and the start of the trail. It was pleasantly cool with some sun breaking through. Ideal running weather.

Reaching the start of the run, I set off, taking great care to control my pace. It was going to be much further than I had done in a long time and to be honest, I wasn’t really sure how it was going to go.

Anyway, the trail begins with a nice level section along gravel road, past a variety of wooden houses and outbuildings.

Runmarö isn’t just a holiday island. There is a year-round population and there is also some agriculture going on. I should also add that every island I visited was car-free, the main forms of transport being quad bikes or cycles. And boats of course, lots of those about.

Soon, the trail veered south and moved onto some nice, shaded forest single track. This felt more like trail running and I enjoyed the experience greatly.  This was the first trail I had run on since the end of March!

The trail passed a small lake and although I was following a gpx track on my Garmin, the distinctive yellow and blue SAT markers were well placed.

I continued south on a mix of surfaces, descending slightly as the trail touched the coast for the first time. I took a quick pause on a jetty to take in the scene and the muted morning sun.

After another section of gently undulating gravel road, the trail turned north again, passing more houses and small agricultural holdings. I could feel my right calf/achilles complaining and I took odd walking breaks so as not to push my luck too far. Anyway, so far, so good.

The trail once again reached the coast at the small settlement of Nore on the east side of the island.

Thereafter, it headed immediately inland again on an ever-changing mix of gravel track and forest single track. I was continuing to run consistently although still taking short, enforced walk breaks to reduce the stress on my right leg. However, I could feel the twinges and tension in both my Achilles and my upper calf to be easing throughout the run which was positive.

As the northern settlement of Langvik was reached, there then followed a couple of miles of gravel track through the forest before the track once again shifted south-west, back towards the start/finish point at Styrsvik.

The last mile or so ventured back into the forest and was a nice finish to the run, passing more of the local houses nestled amongst the conifers on the way. And then, I had come full circle in almost exactly ten miles.

The trail was a fantastic introduction to the scenery and culture of the islands and the gently undulating terrain on mostly soft surfaces had allowed my complaining limb(s) to last the course. For that I was both happy and grateful.

It was still early in the morning and over an hour before the single island shop would open. My overnight ‘accommodation’ was a mile and half or so distant, so I made the decision to return to my gear, eat and consider my next move.

Although I had a rough route in mind for the trip, I had no firm itinerary. Firstly, I didn’t want that level of control over each day. I knew I had plenty for what I wanted to do. More importantly, the weather would be a big factor. Although much of the water is fairly sheltered, there are some broader open water crossings and weather, and wind strength/direction are all important when venturing forth in an inflatable craft!

I initially thought that I would spend the day on Runmarö, stocking up on some food and water at the shop and just relaxing after the run.

However, I could see a significant shift in the weather by the early afternoon, with the following day, Saturday, also being potentially wet and windier. Thus, I made the decision to depart Runmarö without delay and to paddle south to the next island on my route, Nӓmdö.

 

To be continued/…..