Glen Lyon Horseshoe

I would have put money on my knee being sore AF after the Ben Lawers outing but that evening and the following morning, it seemed much improved, almost pain free. Sometimes there is no telling how things are going to go but, in this case, good news.

Saturday was a running rest day but these days I don’t have to while away a day doing very little. Not since I acquired the packraft. Also one of the reasons I chose to come to this area so that I could paddle on Loch Tay. After a very cold start, I launched onto the loch at Kenmore later on the Saturday morning and enjoyed a few hours paddling around the east end of the loch. The sun was bright, the skies were blue and there was barely any wind. Very enjoyable indeed.

Anyway, back to the running.

Sunday was all systems go for the route I had pre-planned. The weather was to mirror that of Saturday. Clear skies and minimal wind. The route I chose was a new one for me, the Glen Lyon horseshoe.

For those not familiar with Scotland, Glen Lyon is a long, quiet glen which lies between Loch Tay and Loch Rannoch to the north. The glen is flanked by some sizeable hills, and this route of about 11 miles is a loop taking in a broad ridge and the four main peaks ( Carn Gorm, Meall Garbh, Carn Mairg & Meall na Aighean) along it. I’ll attach the route map below.

Basically, a big climb followed by an undulating ridge and concluding with a long descent back to the start point.

The car park at Invervar is small and controlled by ANPR, costing £10 for the day. Seems like a lot but it is up there with the best £10 I ever spent. I thought I was going fairly early and arrived just after 0900 to claim the second last space in the carpark. It was minus one at the car park so I kitted up and headed off without delay.

The path starts through woodland. It is a rocky, windy path and much of it was frozen. Soon however, I broke clear of the trees and passed through the gate where the hill track heads up onto the hill. The track is avoided and the route follows a smaller path that hugs the treeline to the left, climbing slowly until the end of the forest plantation. Here the burn is crossed. No messing about, just straight through the water.

Then the path climbs steeply at first before veering away from the treeline to head directly up the grassy slopes towards the first peak of the day, Carn Gorm.

It is a long ascent, mostly on good ground although boggy in places. Looking back, views down Glen Lyon could be had, Loch Tay in the distance still covered in a thick blanket of cloud.

I began passing walkers on the ascent but held a steady pace, very conscious that there would be at least one false summit. In the end, there were two false summits before the final steep push to the top of Carn Gorm.

The views in all directions were stunning, all the way to the distinctive outline of Ben Nevis in the distance. Loch Rannoch below was covered in the same blanket of cloud. However, it was the loch only so not a full inversion by any standards. There was only a breath of wind but enough to keep the wind jacket on.

I stayed for a while, enjoying the views as other walkers I had passed arrived at the summit. Then it was time to head off, down the steep descent from Carn Gorm.

This was slow at first as the path and rocks on the north side of the hill were frozen. I took to the grass as much as possible for grip and a speedier descent. Before long, I was running across the bealach, following the path which skirts to the west of the minor summit of An Sgorr.

I covered a lot of ground quickly and was soon climbing again, up the slope towards the top of Meall Garbh. The path follows the old metal fenceline all the way to the summit which is marked with a cairn, adorned with a tall jumble of old metal fence posts.

Two men at the cairn acknowledged my arrival but declined to chat. In fairness, they were in the middle of some kind of middle-aged dick-measuring contest. Something about how many multiple Munro rounds they had both completed. Yawn!

I was looking forward to the next section as I suspected it would involve some good running. I was right.

Provided sufficient alertness was maintained to avoid a painful trip on the rocky ground, it was possible to run consistently for a good distance. The path headed east with extensive views to the north, the distinctive profile of Schiehallion off to my left.

I continued east, over the top at Meall a Bharr before descending into the bealach before the climb up to the highest point of the day at Carn Mairg.

My knee had held up well. Little of the level of nagging discomfort I had experienced on Friday and I was enjoying the experience much more as a consequence.

I made short work of the ascent and soon found myself at the cairn atop Carn Mairg (1,041m). I paused to refuel and take in the views.

I could see the distance to cross to the final peak of the day but it began with what looked like a gradual, very runnable descent.

I picked my way through the boulders, trying to follow the faint path down from the top. This took time but once I crossed the old wall below, it was full speed ahead on the largely grassy track which led down and across to the final climb of the day. It was boggy at the bottom and as I climbed the other side, I was once more on icy ground as this was again a north-facing slope that had not seen the sun.

I arrived at the top of Meall na Aighean. Well not quite at the top. The very top is reached by a little scramble up the summit tor. I couldn’t be arsed with that, so I took on the last of my electrolytes and water to ward off cramp on the long descent to come.

I did make the short detour to the adjoining, subsidiary peak before tracking back for the descent path.

The first half of the descent (about two miles in total) was a grassy track so I was able to open the throttle and launch downhill with some speed. With the views to the front as I descended, this was hugely enjoyable running and my knee was cooperating.

The last half of the descent was slower. It became steepier, rockier and much more caution was required.

Nonetheless, it was still great fun and the view up Glen Lyon in the autumn sun was a treat.

Eventually, I hit the vehicle track and once more passed through the gate to retrace my steps on the rocky little path on which I had commenced the route.

On reflection, this was one of the best running days I have had in the hills. The weather was fantastic and these days are few and far between in the Highlands, especially in October. Aside from being both scenic and grand, the route had allowed a good amount of running which is why I do it after all. Finally, my knee had taken a back seat and I had climbed, descended and run without worrying or thinking about it very much at all.

I hope this is a sign of good things to come.