Sunday in Stockholm

As previously reported, Thursday 27 August 2026 was to be my last night on Sandön and I decided to bivy that night as the weather was perfect and I could pack my tent away dry in the evening.

So, that is what I did and set up my bivy in a different spot about ten metres from where my tent had been pitched. I packed everything I could, so I was in a position to conclude that and leave early the next morning. I just slept in the sleeping bag. No need for the bivy bag, it would just be one more damp thing in the morning.

I was awake with first light, as always. However, you don’t often awake to a sight like this….

Anyway, I was ready to go soon after 0600 and the wind and sea state were to be in my favour. The wind had shifted to an easterly and I was pretty much paddling due west so I would have the wind behind me.

The paddle back was straightforward. I could even take short breaks as the wind and swell would carry me slowly forward. The paddle back took me just under three hours and as I arrived back in Stavsnӓs, the kayak company were open for business, preparing kayaks and kit for a busy weekend of hires.

They were generous once again and allowed me to use their decking and hose to clean off my boat and kit and to get it dry for packing. I achieved this in about an hour, had a quick wash in the toilets and headed for the bus stop.

I had booked a room/apartment in a modern suburb of Stockholm for two nights. It was a bit of a challenge to get there with bulky, heavy bags but I made it well before check-in time so I could dump my bags and find some food. Once checked in later, a very welcome shower and kit laundry ensued before I could finally relax.

Saturday was rainy all day and although I did get out and about, I’ll skip all of that for now. My flight on Sunday was late afternoon, so I had until an 1100 check-out time to occupy myself. That meant a final run of the trip.

From previous travels, I have always found an early morning run in a new city is not only incredibly enjoyable, but it is also a great way to see a lot, cover good ground and before the business of normal daily business kicks in. I think back to great early city runs in places like Valletta and Siena.

I plotted a route, although it would be easy to follow without a gpx. I would have left earlier but I needed to take a small ferry to reach the start point and the first ferry on Sunday was just after 0800.

So, I wandered the few hundred metres to the ferry which in a matter of minutes would take me over to the island of Södermalm.

Once across, I was off, running along the quayside and past the modern apartment blocks. After about half a mile, I cut inland through a small park and then joined the pedestrian walkway that would take me along the north side of Södermalm towards Slussen. I passed the cruise ship terminal and came across a familiar friend…

Soon I was at the crossing over to Galma Stan, the old town of Stockholm and a separate island. As I crossed, I passed a docked French navy ship, one of their new First Defence & Intervention (FDI) frigates. I believe it was the Amiral Ronarc’h.

I continued down the quayside, passing the Royal Palace on my left before crossing another bridge to pass the impressive Grand Hotel and the moorings for all of the archipelago tour boats.

I then continued around, crossing yet another bridge ( Skeppsholmsbron) to the island of Skeppsholmen.

This was much quieter and I took a short break to take in the view of Gamla Stan across the water as well as the Af Chapman, a permanently moored tall ship which now forms part of the Swedish Tourist Association Youth Hostel adjacent to the quay.

I continued my run, now in some early morning sun, coming to yet another bridge which would take me over to an even smaller island, Kastellholmen. Although I could see it from further back, I was still disappointed to climb the hill and find the Kastellet (small castle) wrapped in plastic and scaffolding. It was however a good viewpoint across much of the eastern part of the city.

I took in some water and calories then set off down the hill for the return. Back on Skeppsholmen, I took a different path which would take me past the Modern Art museum before crossing back once again the way I had come.

I was still feeling good and running well although the city was already much busier than I had anticipated for this time on a Sunday morning. Perhaps the Swedes are earlier risers than elsewhere in Europe? I also think the tourists were making the most of the better weather after the very wet day the day before.

Anyway, I scooted up the ramp beside the Royal Palace and took a route down through the old town of Gamla Stan. It is very picturesque, but I didn’t dawdle too much, having spent more time here yesterday in the rain.

I crossed back to Södermalm at Slussen and turned west, heading uphill for about half a mile. By taking a few correct turns, using guesswork mainly, I successfully located Monteliusvӓgen. Tucked away, this is a scenic walkway that allows for great views across to Gamla Stan.

I snaped a couple of pictures then continued on, heading along the walkway before descending a series of steps down to the quayside once more. The rest of my run (still quite a few miles to go) was along the edge of Södermalm, on pedestrian paths.

I ran past gardens, green areas and the small waterways stocked with vibrant red wooden boats.

The sun was out, it was a perfect temperature and by now there were a lot of runners and walkers with the same idea as me. I was surprised how many were out and about but good to see I suppose.

As I hit the south side of Södermalm, my legs were toiling and my achilles was starting to complain. However, it was now after 1000 and I was against the clock to be out of my room by 1100. Thus, I forced myself on, trying to maintain something around an 8.45min/mile pace.

That said, I enjoyed the remainder of the run, but I was glad when I finally crossed the bridge back into Hammarby Sjöstad for the final mile or so to my hotel.

In the end, a longer run that I had anticipated but it had been a great little route and I had covered a lot of interesting ground in the process.

Needless to say I made check-out after a quick final pack and a cold shower! Then. Off to the airport and the end of the trip.

I hope you have enjoyed an insight into the trip. Something of an expedition, even if I do say so myself.

From the running perspective, I have a long way to go to attain full fitness again and I do now wonder if I might now be plagued with a more permanent achilles tendonitis going forward. I think I just need to build up distance slowly and ensure enough rest between runs. However, I ran four times in just over a week, covering around 30 miles. After nearly five months without meaningful running, that is very positive.

I know this is a running blog, and I have spent a lot of words describing the packrafting aspect. Hopefully I have found a balance, but it was such an integral part of the trip. The packrafting was itself extremely rewarding and it enabled me to spend eight nights away, doing what I enjoy, in a remarkable place.

I found the planning side of the trip to be involved but very enjoyable. I like that side of these trips and casting modesty firmly aside, I am good at it. My kit was spot on, I didn’t lack anything important and everything I did have was fit for purpose. That makes a big difference and on reflection, I think I made good decisions throughout which also contributed hugely to a safe and memorable trip.

Is it a model I could follow in the future? Quite possibly. There are other options in both the UK and elsewhere in Europe for similar expeditions. However, my immediate focus is to get my running back on track. Fingers crossed.