Loch Broom fastpack

Training has been going well since my last training post back on 7 March. I am still ensuring sufficient rest days as I don’t want to risk any overtraining before the two  significant undertakings in the coming weeks.

The weather for the weekend was looking excellent, by far the most favourable forecast this year so I decided to plan for a shorter fastpack to make the most of it. It is also the last couple of weeks of the current Scotrail Flat Fare discounted rail travel period so I thought I could combine the two.

I have spent a lot of time running in the hills to the north of Dunkeld, around Loch Ordie, Deuchary hill and the smaller lochs up towards Kirkmichael. However, I have never overnighted in that area, so this seemed like a good opportunity. The route I planned would also include a section I had never done before, cutting across from Loch Oisinneach Mor to Loch Broom where I would bivy for the night.

The following morning, it would be about 7 miles, mostly downhill, into Pitlochry. In total, about 20 miles or so.

Day 1

I had gathered and packed all my kit on the Thursday afternoon, so Friday morning was spent killing time. I headed down to the station in bright sunshine and was soon heading north, with the usual train change at Perth.

I arrived at Dunkeld & Birnam station just before 1330 and set off, running down through Birnam and across the bridge over the Tay into Dunkeld.

Once through the town, it is only a short distance to the turnoff for the start of the route and I was soon climbing up the forest road, past the Cally car park and onwards up the hill.

The first couple of miles are mostly uphill but there are a few level or downhill sections where running is possible. The sun was out and there were great views of Deuchary Hill as I made my way up the track.

Soon enough, I reached Mill Dam and turned off onto the single-track path that gradually climbs the hill to the east of the loch. It was reasonably dry underfoot and I continued up. There were quite a few walkers coming in the opposite direction, having probably been up as far as Loch Ordie. The sun was warm and it felt as if spring might suddenly be almost upon us.

Cresting the hill, the track winds around to the east. It is mostly level and good running for the last couple of miles to Loch Ordie.

Arriving at the loch, the view was great, across the still water towards the heather-clad hills and bright blue skies beyond.

I skirted around the loch and stopped at my usual break spot, adjacent to the little stone bridge on the north side of the loch. It is a great view and fast-flowing water is easily accessible under the bridge. I took a good drink of cold water and topped up my softflask. I only brought one as water is readily available all along the route and I had the filter.

Rested, I set off uphill once more on the gradual climb to the next landmark, Loch Oisinneach Mor, about three to four miles distant. The path weaves across the hillside, through stands of trees, and it was becoming noticeably wetter underfoot. I took care to avoid the worst of the water, but I was very aware that the worst was yet to come and the chances of maintaining dry feet were slim to none.

The path opens up onto the open moor and with the exception of some gentle undulations, it is mostly level to the loch which is not visible until it suddenly appears on turning a corner around the hillside.

Loch Oisinneach Mor is a tranquil and picturesque little spot, even more so in the calm and still conditions. I took some photos and spent a few minutes drinking and taking in some calories for the final leg of the day.

The path along the side of the loch is always very wet and muddy, even in summer, and today was no exception. By the time I had negotiated the lochside, my feet were muddy and soaked through. It was always going to happen!

At the top of the loch, another track veers off to the left and this was my route. From this point, everything would be new to me so I was keen to see what lay in store. I power-walked up the short distance from the loch to the high point of the day.

You can look at these things as much as you like on mapping or Google Earth but the reality is never quite as expected.

At the crest, I was treated to a fantastic view. The long expanse of downhill led to the first view of Loch Broom in the middle distance. Beyond, great views of Ben Vrackie and Beinn a’ Ghlo behind.

The downhill section was all very runnable, first on rocky track then on a more open, grassy track across the hillside and down to the livestock shielings. There, the track turns hard right and after about a mile of gentle ascent, Loch Broom came into view. The main track leads down to the boathouse at the west end of the loch but I was heading for the other side of the loch.

I took a very rough and wet ATV track off the main track, heading across the moor to the south of the loch. Whilst Garmin Explore did not show a linking track down to the loch, it was apparent from Google Earth that there was a faint quad track. I continued along the track, looking for evidence of this path. Soon, I could see the end of the loch and the boathouse down below me and to my left, but no track.

In retrospect, I think I should have pushed on slightly further and I would have found it. However, I decided at the time to take a direct approach down the hillside. I would like to say that went well but it didn’t. It was about half a mile of deep heather and horrible wetland, and I was simply ploughing through the heather, at times up to my knees in bog or water.

The wettest part was just as the loch was reached but soon, I was over the burn and at my target for the day, the area beside the boathouse (this is a fishing loch).

It was still warm in the late afternoon sun so I decided to set up camp before getting myself cleaned up and into dry, warmer clothing. I found the flattest spot I could find with a little shelter from the boathouse and set up my tarp etc. In the end, I was pleased with the set-up and given that the forecast was for light breeze at worst, I was confident that I would not be defeated by the elements like my last fastpack!

I washed out my socks and shoes in the loch, washed myself a little too and got into my warmer gear.

The temperature dropped as soon as the sun went down but by that time, I was in my sleeping bag and toasty. I decided that I would not use the bivy bag initially, making a final decision later in the evening if I was going to use it at all overnight. There was no rain forecast and the air was very still, so it seemed like a good opportunity to lie out in just the sleeping bag.

I ate slowly over the next few hours, watched some video and listened to some music and once it was fully dark, the night sky was pretty interesting as well.

As usual, I slept poorly. I just don’t understand why. I was tired, warm, comfortable and it was blissfully quiet. I think I slept for more than an hour before 0100 but after that it was short, irregular bouts of sleep only. There was no reason to be off early in the morning, so I just had to try and relax as much as possible. Sleep or no sleep, it was great to be out in the open air, and I was glad that I didn’t use the bivy bag at all in the end.

Day 2

The other good thing about bivy as opposed to tent camping is that you can see everything around you.

Hence, I was able to lie in my warm sleeping bag and watch the sky slowly change colour, culminating in a really nice sunrise.

I ate my remaining solid calories whilst watching the sun come up, then I was ready to get things packed up. It wasn’t too cold and I was able to use the groundsheet to get everything packed up in an orderly, mostly dry manner. The tarp was last and it was soaking with condensation but I got that packed into the bag.

My socks had been down the front of my shorts overnight, so they were nearly dry. I don’t care about putting on wet shoes, but there is nothing worse than cold, wet socks!

So, around 0700, I was off and moving. The route would be dry underfoot as there is a good vehicle track that leads all the way down through the forest to the boathouse.

The first mile and a half is mostly uphill through the forest.

The highest point is reached near to a mast, then it is downhill all the way!

After an enjoyable mile or so, the edge of the forest was reached, and I was then briefly on vehicle track before that transitioned to tarmac.

There were good views down into the glen ahead and further south towards Ballinluig.

The tarmac section was quite long and very steep, so I was jogging at best, trying to minimise knee and ankle impact.

The pack was bouncing like a bastard too and starting to hurt my collarbones so that was another reason not to go crazy.

Before long, I was down on the old road and heading along the short road section into Pitlochry.

I arrived about 0845 and just about everything was closed.

I checked the train times and decided to get the earlier train. Better to be home sooner than hanging around for the sake of it. This worked well and in the end, I was home for about 1100.

Thoughts on review then?

Fantastic weather, first and foremost. Great running in those moderate but pleasant temperatures and an ideal dry, calm overnight for the bivy. The distance and route were perfect for my intentions, and it is always good to cover new ground as well.

I was really happy with my overnight set-up and with the kit I took. Just a shame about the pack. If anything, I am even less convinced by its versatility than I was before.

I’ll train again mid-week then I am simply going to rest for the Canal Du Midi which kicks off a week on Monday.

I’ll include the stats below. However, the Day 1 stats are off as I forgot to stop my watch, and it ran for nearly half an hour after I stopped. Distance is about right obviously but pace etc will be off as a consequence.