What is Fastpacking?
Fastpacking is a term which has only come to wider recognition in recent years but what is it and how is it different from hiking or backpacking for example?
There are a number of definitions out there but most if not all are in agreement that fastpacking is an outdoor pursuit which is a combination or hybrid of trail running and lightweight backpacking. The latter, also referred to as ultralight backpacking, was itself a phenomenon which arose to prominence predominantly in North America and most often associated with long trail thru-hiking. Ultralight backpackers strive to reduce base pack weight wherever possible, stripping gear back to the lightest, barest essentials to support long daily mileages on foot over multiple days or even weeks.
Trail running really requires no explanation other than to suggest that it is normally associated with single outings of any distance, carrying only what is required to support the duration of that run.
So, if ultralight backpacking involves carrying minimal kit over multiple days, how is fastpacking different given that many ultralight backpackers cover considerable mileage in single days, often as far if not further than most normal single day running expeditions? This is where opinions diverge somewhat.
Some suggest that fastpacking is a longer distance, multi day effort but simply at a faster pace than your average hiker, even if the entire distance is covered at a walk. Others maintain that fastpacking differs in that running is introduced into the equation, even if running only accounts for a percentage of the distance travelled. I am going to nail my colours to the mast and agree with the latter. Walking is walking, however speedy and it is the introduction of running that makes fastpacking a niche of its own.
Why fastpack then? A fair question if we already accept that ultralight backpackers can cover as many miles in a day as many trail runners, even if it takes them a little more time to do it. Most single trail running outings are a loop with the same start/finish point or a linear journey where onward transport home from the finish point is available or planned. The introduction of at least one overnight in the itinerary allows the runner to considerably extend the distance and duration of the overall trip, in theory by as many days as planning and logistics can support. It also allows a longer trail or trip to be condensed into fewer days if the time available is a critical factor.
All that said, it has already been acknowledged that fast hikers might cover the same distance in a day so why run at all? The runners out there don’t need me to answer this question. The answer is simply the joy of running and the urge to do it. Even if the pack is heavier and the pace slower with running only possible on the flats or downhills, there is still running and that for me is what drives an interest in fastpacking. That and the pleasure of a night or more in the outdoors, perhaps even out in the open under the sky.
It all sounds very idyllic, spontaneous and adventurous and fastpacking can certainly be all those things but in order to maximise both enjoyment and safety, there are a number of variables and considerations which I will go on to discuss. I will break these down into five broad headings which I will cover individually in a series of further posts.
Route/Terrain
Once a practised fast packer, planning and preparation can become a faster and slightly more spontaneous affair, but planning remains key to a successful trip regardless of experience. The first major consideration that influences all others in turn is the selected route and the terrain that will need to be negotiated along the way. Dependent on overall distance, daily distance, remoteness and access to support at any given point, the kit and planning required can vary quite a lot.
For example, a five day fastpack on the Tour de Mont Blanc staying each night in a full board refuge or hotel allows much less gear and a far lighter pack, but it also involves more expense and forward planning. Alternatively, a multi-day fastpack in more remote parts of the Scottish Highlands could be much more spontaneous but might require overnight camping or bivvying every night and limited or no access to provisions and/or re-supply. You might have to carry everything you need to sustain you for the entire duration of the trip. That is all very well but if you want to avoid trying to run with a full 55 or 65 litre pack, this is a different planning challenge.
Unsurprisingly, weather is a big factor. The main considerations are obvious. Summer or a location in a warmer, drier climate will generally mean that less kit is required but you still need to be safe. If weather is generally colder or less reliable, this could influence viable accommodation options as well as increase the amount of clothing and kit required for both comfort and safety. Multiple clothing layers in addition to a three or four season sleeping bag can significantly increase pack size and weight. I would suggest that winter fastpacking is not for the uninitiated. It’s also dark most of the time!
If you want to be inspired by fastpacking at its purest and most adventurous then look no further than Jenny Tough’s series of videos on YouTube. Jenny is a Canadian adventurer who has fastpacked across a mountain range in each of the five continents, starting with a 1,000km, solo and unsupported fastpack across the Tien Shan range in Kyrgyzstan. Her ‘Mountains of Heaven’ video of that trip is fantastic. She followed up with fastpacks across the Bolivean Andes, Moroccan Atlas, NZ Southern Alps and the Canadian Rockies. There is a video of each expedition on her YouTube channel and they are both brutally honest and inspirational in equal measure.
Route Selection
I will go on to look at other key fastpacking considerations but there is a basic co-dependence between all those other factors and route selection. If you select a route as your starting point, then all the other variables need to align in order to make that route a viable and achievable proposition. In simpler terms, you need to take the right stuff to make it work.
Remember that you need to carry whatever is required to support the trip with the all-important caveat that you want to be able to move fast and run where possible with that kit. If you are looking at a route and can’t figure out how you can achieve it with the kit, logistics and experience you have available to you, then there is a fair chance your route plan needs a re-think.
So how do you choose a route?
There are a huge variety of ways you can do this. The first is simply to go with a route you already know. You might have hiked or biked a route before and now fancy trying it as a fastpack.
I have always been a big fan of maps, even in my teens and I very much enjoy poring over paper maps. I realise that this may be an alien concept to the digital generation but I do maintain that anyone venturing into the outdoors should at least be able to read and understand a paper map. That said, I have also used Google Earth and Google Maps on many occasions to identify possible new routes.
Failing that, there is an abundance of material online in website or video format which might give you an idea or inspiration. There are many really good mapping apps which also provide routes to follow or download. AllTrails, OSMaps, Wikiloc, Gaia, Komoot and OutdoorActive are some of the most popular although most require a paid subscription of some kind to access the real benefits of the app. In my view, AllTrails provides the best data without cost and it has some great routes to offer. There are others available in North America, particularly associated with some of the more popular National Scenic Trails.
Here in Scotland, I personally make a lot of use of the WalkHighlands website. It contains a wealth of routes of varying distance and you can also download offline maps or GPX tracks at no cost.
If you use a Garmin or other satellite device with a mapping function, you can plot and download routes onto the device before you go. This is great, particularly to improve safety and navigation in poor weather or bad visibility.
There is an important word of caution though if you either do or are thinking of relying solely on a smartphone or any kind of digital device for navigation. They can get lost or misplaced. They can get broken. They also need power so it is important you know the battery life of your device and if necessary, know how you can re-charge it if required, be that from a mains power source or a portable power bank.
A lot of longer distance hill or mountain races require participants to carry a paper map and a real compass in addition to any digital device that they might have. This is a failsafe which I personally support and is constantly reinforced by our Mountain Rescue Teams. If you can’t read a map or use a compass, you might want to learn and there are loads of videos and tutorials online.
A few years ago, I was in the Lake District when I was approached by a fellow who had been pacing up and down the road peering at his phone. He showed me a walking route on his phone and asked if I could help him find the start point of his walk. On another occasion I was up on the Cairngorm plateau when I was again approached by a solitary walker who asked if he was going in the right direction for Ben Macdui. Maybe I am just a miserable bastard, but I told both these individuals that if they didn’t know the answer to their questions, they shouldn’t be going.
The last point I will make about route selection is to be realistic and aspire to cover distances which you are confident are within your level of skill, experience and fitness. If fastpacking is new to you, start with shorter distances to get to know your kit and to decide what works for you. It’s great to challenge yourself but remember, it is supposed to be enjoyable too!
Nutrition & hydration
The considerations here are in some respects the same as those for trail running or long hiking days but the introduction of at least one overnight does make an important difference. A couple of gels and a fistful of Jelly Babies just won’t cut it. You need to sustain the first day’s run, recover, re-fuel for the next stage and so on for however many days or stages you have planned. There are no hard and fast rules here and everyone is different, but you need to err on the side of safety and try and make it a positive experience.
Many self-sufficient, multi-stage foot races or events are essentially fastpacking expeditions. To provide some context then, most race organisers will impose a minimum daily calorie provision as part of the mandatory kit list. This is generally not less than 2,000 calories per day. That maybe sounds manageable, but I can assure you that this is a very minimal intake to sustain four or five days of long distance movement. On 2,000 calories a day I would be peckish just spending the day sitting on my arse watching the telly.
On the Beyond the Ultimate Mountain Ultra in July 2024, I exceeded the 2,000-calorie daily minimum and carried at least 2,500 calories per day to cover the five days. That was including some running calories and maximising the use of freeze-dried foods and other light, calorie-dense foods to reduce weight. My nutrition weighed four kilos which was well over a third of my starting pack weight. Of course, you can just take more food, but it takes space and you need to carry it which then impacts on the ease with which you can move which is why you are doing the thing in the first place. It is a delicate balance.
I was running on fumes during the latter days of the mountain ultra and I lost a noticeable amount of weight. In retrospect though, I have to say that I don’t think I would take any more or any less if I did it again. Those are of course more spartan conditions but the point I am trying to make is that food is important. You can get away with a fair amount on a single overnighter but on multiple days you need to sustain yourself or it might at best be a shit experience.
To cook or not to cook…
The other big consideration on the food front is whether or not you will choose to heat or cook food. I would say this choice comes down to the duration of your fastpacking trip, potential access to other prepared food sources and lastly to your own preference. On a single overnighter, you can simplify matters considerably by taking calorie-rich, cold foods that require no cooking. This is my choice on most single night outings. However, if you want to produce your own hot food or beverages, the most basic requirement will be the ability to boil water. That will allow you to make hot drinks and to re-hydrate dried or freeze-dried foods such as instant noodles, soups and/or purpose-produced freeze-dried backpacking meals. The latter are very light in weight and calorie-rich ( in some cases now up to 1,000k/cal per meal ). They have two main drawbacks in my view. Firstly, they are not very cheap although arguably no more expensive than a fish supper or a doner kebab. Secondly, it is my opinion that these meals exist somewhere on a sliding scale from barely edible with some extra condiments down to absolutely vile. I seriously question the palate of anyone who takes a contrary view.
To boil water you will need at a minimum a fuel source (various options), a means to ignite said fuel, a pot or suitable container to boil water in ( this can double as a mug or food receptacle ) and an implement to eat with, unless you are particularly uncouth. There are a great many options to achieve this, some at fairly light weight and small packing size. I won’t cover them all as they are many and quite varied.
If I do go for the cooking/heating option I use a 100ml gas canister, a very small titanium stove which screws directly onto the gas canister, a 450ml titanium mug with lid and a mini BIC lighter. I use a long-handled titanium spoon, particularly if using freeze-dried meal packs. The gas, stove and lighter fit inside the mug which I then pack with some bubble wrap (to prevent infuriating rattling) and keep the lid secure with a sturdy rubber band. Overall, very compact and light but all things add up in terms of size and weight so just bear that in mind.
Other popular options are the self-contained cooking stove systems by JetBoil or similar manufacturers. I haven’t owned or used one but other people really like them for their efficiency and their relatively compact size.
Hydration
It goes without saying that proper hydration is not just essential but can make or break a protracted physical endeavour. If you are travelling long distances in more remote country in addition to overnighting outdoors, you need regular access to sufficient water or fluid to sustain your activity. It is unlikely, even with a single overnighter, that you can start with sufficient fluid to see you through to the end. You also don’t want the dead weight of multiple litres of fluid in your pack.
Part of your route planning and prep must then include your awareness of where and how to acquire sufficient fluid at key points. This is going to come from one or all of three sources. Buying it in a shop, access to running potable water or lastly having the ability to access and filter/purify water from an outdoor or natural source. Your route planning should reveal whether or not the first two options will be available to you. If they are not available to you or they are not sufficient, you will need to carry the means to obtain water and make it safe. This is generally going to be by one of three methods. Firstly, you can boil water. This requires the means to boil water and this is not really achievable in large quantities. Secondly, there are a range of tablets or chemicals available to purify water. Perfectly viable but not the most convenient, particularly as the process can take time.
The last option is to have the means to filter water. This can be with gadgets of varying sizes and designs, but the technology has moved on massively and this is really a convenient option at relatively low cost. For larger amounts of water, you need a suitable container or two (bearing in mind you don’t want to cross-contaminate your dirty and clean water). For most situations in my experience, running soft flasks with a built-in filter cap are excellent. They are safe and reliable in most scenarios, take up no additional space and can meet both your running and general sustenance needs on a fastpack. Salomon, Katadyn and Hydrapak produce some of the most popular flask filters.
Other filters, such as those made by Sawyer are also great, but they generally require additional containers as the thread size is not generally compatible with running soft flasks. They are however a great option to filter larger quantities of water in slower time, particularly in conjunction with a larger capacity container or bag such as the two or three litre bags produced by Hydrapak or Cnoc for example. Both companies now produce bags with a 42mm thread opening which means you can also use compatible running soft flask filters in them. This tends to be my own favoured solution. I will use filters in my running soft flasks for most purposes but I also have both 750ml and 2 litre soft bottles which will accommodate the same filter(s) if I think there will be a need to acquire greater volumes of fluid. These additional bags roll up to a very small size and weigh little in the grand scheme of things.
Accommodation
A fastpacking overnight stop could really amount to anything from a five-star hotel room to lying on the ground at the side of the trail. The latter can be very much a reality on a multi-day endurance event such as the Spine Race which has all the components of a fastpack although the location, duration and regularity of any ‘rest’ periods is unstructured and fluid. Some competitors will pull out their bivy bag and sleeping bag and sleep in a public toilet, a phone box or at the side of the trail. OK, a little extreme for most in less arduous circumstances but it does illustrate that fastpacking can be as comfortable or as spartan as you choose it to be.
Hotels, mountain huts, refuges and bothies
I have already referred elsewhere to use of mountain huts or refuges, particularly in alpine Europe and Scandinavia where many of these refuges are virtually hotels in all but name. If you want to learn more about this type of trip, check out Jeff Pelletier’s YouTube channel where you can see some great videos of him and his partner doing hut-to-hut fastpacking trips on some fantastic routes including the Tour de Mont Blanc, the Julian Alps in Slovenia and the ‘O’ Trail in Torres del Paine, Patagonia.
The network of mountain bothies and youth hostels in the UK are other great options to support a fastpacking trip. You may not get a room or a bothy to yourself but if you don’t mind being a little social or a bit (sometimes a lot!) of snoring then it can be a dry roof over your head at little or no cost.
In some places it is possible to camp or bivy in the vicinity of a refuge or hut and still obtain food and services from the refuge, at cost of course. This is what I did a few years ago on the GR20 in Corsica because I didn’t want to sleep in the refuge dormitories. I paid for camping and slept outside in my bivy bag. The weather was generally good and this worked out great. I carried the extra weight of my sleeping kit but for me it was worth it in the circumstances.
Last summer on the GR70 in France, I alternated nights bivying outdoors with accommodation. I loved the nights sleeping outdoors but the alternate nights in accommodation allowed showering, clothes washing, hot food and charging of electronics. Depending on where you go, it can be as civilised or as rugged as you want it to be.
Tents, tarps and bivy bags
A more flexible approach is to camp or bivy, particularly where wild camping is permitted or tolerated. A tent is a great approach but always bear in mind that you will be carrying it. That said, there are some fantastic one and two person tents which are lightweight, compact and of course weatherproof. Prices can range considerably but good ones can be obtained on a budget, particularly if you can pick one up second-hand.
Some of the lightest one person tents are now only around 1kg or less in weight. If I use a tent for fastpacking it is usually the Marmot Tungsten Ultralight 1P. Very low weight and surprisingly roomy but I am not sure how confident I would be with it in strong wind. There are many great lightweight tents out there inclusive of the super lightweight dyneema (cuben fibre) offerings if your budget stretches that far. Some lightweight tents require one or more walking poles to set up so that can be a consideration when you choose a tent. Bear in mind of course that if you are travelling as a pair, you can split the components of a tent between you to share the load.
A tarp is an alternative to a tent, with certain advantages and disadvantages. Tarps are generally lighter than a tent and can be fairly compact when rolled or folded. There are a myriad of different tarp set-ups dependent on your whim, your environment and the means you have to secure it properly. In a wooded area, you might be able to set up a tarp with a ridge cord and without poles. Otherwise at least one pole is generally required. This can of course be a running or hiking pole although a word of caution about using a very expensive carbon running pole. They are not really intended for this function.
I have a couple of tarps and I have used them for fastpacking but always in conjunction with a bivy bag and a groundsheet. I need to take lightweight poles though because I have never used and will never use hiking or running poles. Thus, it is not my default setup because tarp + bivy bag + poles + groundsheet starts to equal a tent in bulk and weight. If the tarp setup is sound and the weather fairly reliable, many do use tarps without a bivy bag and that is a perfectly viable option too.
Some people simply don’t like bivy bags and find them either too exposed or too claustrophobic. I have to say that I will be reluctant to use one if I am expecting a night of rain, but it is otherwise my preferred sleeping arrangement when fastpacking. With an appropriate sleeping bag and a half decent mat it can be surprisingly comfortable. Set up and re-packing is fast and easy and I do not personally experience any significant problems with condensation. I have used a bivy on hot European summer nights and I have used one on subzero nights in Scotland. Yes, some nights are a better sleep than others, but I can say I have never had a bad night in a bivy. I am not really the type to hold hands and watch a sunset, but I don’t mind admitting that lying on the ground in the fresh air looking up at the sky can be pretty great.
For a number of years I have used the trusty Alpkit Hunka XL. The XL is slightly heavier and bulkier than the regular bag, but I have always thought it to be worth it as you can get a sleeping mat and sleeping bag inside it and still have room to move around inside. If things took a very poor turn, I am confident I could get most of my kit inside too if I had to. Last year, I acquired an Alpkit Kloke which is a fantastic upgrade, but I still think I will use the Hunka from time to time. For its price it remains a great option in my view. There are other good options by companies such as Rab, Outdoor Research and The North Face. Even some of the military surplus goretex bivy bags are great value.
I do also have a more expensive bivy, the Outdoor Research Ascentshell. It costs as much as many tents but if you like to bivy, it sits somewhere on the fence between a small, single skin tent and a bivy bag. A simple plastic pole gives it some structure at the head end which does effectively keep the material up and away from your head. It is a top/side entry which makes it a massive improvement on some of the other enclosed bivy systems with a small entry at one end only. Getting in and out of those is a nightmare.
In addition to the very waterproof shell, there is an inner mesh layer which can be zipped open or closed independently of the outer shell. This is a great feature, particularly if there is a risk of insect incursion. On that point I will make very clear that I have never and will never bivy in affected parts of Scotland in midge season. Call me soft if you will but there are large areas of Scotland I won’t even go to in midge season.
In the best of weather and with a sleep system you can count on, you can simply sleep out without a bivy bag or any cover. Cowboy camping, as our American cousins call it. I would suggest these might be rare nights in the UK !
Leave No Trace
The seven ‘Leave No Trace’ principles should always apply to any excursion or overnight stay in the great outdoors, regardless of location.
- Plan ahead & prepare
- Be considerate of others
- Respect farm animals and wildlife
- Travel and camp on durable ground
- Leave what you find
- Dispose of waste properly
- Minimise the effects of fire
I think you get the picture here overall. The options available to spend one or more nights on a fastpacking trip are so varied that you can create and tailor your own adventure. It doesn’t have to be grand, protracted or expensive. I occasionally run across the Tay Bridge into Fife and spend the night in Tentsmuir forest before running back in the morning. It is a 20-mile round trip in under 12 hours and the only cost is the food I choose to take with me.
Packs & gear
I need to manage expectations from the outset. The use of any piece of outdoor or running gear is a very personal experience for each and every user. What works for me might not work for someone else and vice versa. I have said in my brief bio that I do not intend to produce any structured reviews of gear. Personally, I think it is a lot of time spent writing about a single product amongst tens or hundreds when at the end of the day one can only meaningfully describe one’s own experience.
Don’t get me wrong, I read gear reviews, but I take them with a large pinch of salt and glean from them what I think might be useful for me in light of what I know my own preferences to be. I have owned a number of items of gear that received glowing reviews and which I found to be total crap in my own experience. A lot of shoes in particular fall into that category. Conversely, I could rave about a number of pieces of kit that I have used but which are not so highly rated by others.
All of that said, what follows is my own personal perspective on what considerations are important for fastpacking gear, some kit I really rate and like and some things I really don’t like. Notwithstanding personal opinion, I think there a number of general considerations in relation to fastpacking kit that apply regardless. Here we go then….!
Backpacks
If you are already a trail runner, you will probably possess at least one running pack or vest. The style, capacity and flexibility of what you have chosen will very much depend on your budget, your personal preferences, intended use and the type of distances or events you participate in. Sometimes brand loyalty can also be an influencing factor.
I think it is safe to say though that even the most flexible and spacious 12 litre pack will not suffice for anything other than the most lightweight and minimal overnight fastpack. Such a pack might suffice for a hut-to-hut trip dependent on season, weather and other kit carried. However, most fastpacking exploits will require something bigger.
Before I continue, I should acknowledge that I am privileged to own and have owned a number of packs for fastpacking. Some are OK, some are great and some I have used once or twice and then sold because I thought they were rubbish. However, I think I am in a position to have a fairly broad evidence base for what I think works well, for me at least.
Size
There are a lot of variables to consider if you want to acquire a pack for fastpacking. You need to start with some idea of what kind of trips you are hoping to make and also have a rough idea of what other kit you will use. We have covered the options for sleeping arrangements and this is always the biggest consideration as this kit is likely to consume the most space in any pack system.
To cut to the chase, I would say that a 25 litre pack is likely to be a minimum size you should be thinking about. Yes, I am including 24 litre packs too as there are some good ones out there! However, if you want the flexibility to carry more kit and/or food on some trips then you should consider sizing up to 30 or 35 litres. There are some 40 litre fastpacks too and they have their place, particularly for multi-day self-sufficient outings, but the biggest risk with a larger pack is that you just end up filling it with things you don’t need because you have space. The aim after all is to reduce size and weight and take only what you need.
If you are going above 40 litres then it could be that your basic kit is very bulky or you are simply going to end up backpacking rather than fastpacking.
Fluids
The next big consideration is how you want to carry your water. Most traditional hiking backpack designs require the user to carry water bottles in rear or side mesh pockets and/or to use a bladder. If you are ok with that then don’t shy away from a more traditional backpack design. They are stable, generally comfortable and some are surprisingly good for running. Personally, I dislike bladders and will not use one so I am looking for the ability to carry bottles or soft flasks at the front because I want to re-hydrate on the move as I would on any other trail run. Unfortunately, it is hard to find a more traditional backpack design with that feature.
Lots of companies are now producing packs which they are calling fastpacks and are marketing them specifically for this activity. Many have decided to take the body-hugging running vest concept and scale it up to larger capacity packs. This includes a greater emphasis on front-carrying capacity for liquids and other trail essentials. You might think that makes perfect sense and it absolutely would if it worked. Here is where I probably start to deviate from a lot of accepted thinking because I have tried very few race-vest style fastpacks that I think work the way I would want them to. Now I really think about it, I haven’t found one yet that I really rate although one or two come close. The question why brings me to me to my next consideration which is fit, or perhaps more accurately, fitness for purpose.
Style and fit
Setting aside some of the other considerations, I am looking for two main things from a fastpack. Can it carry my gear efficiently and how well can I run with it once fully laden?
The first question comes down to size and design to a large extent, but it is also strongly influenced by how you pack. There are various principles with regard to packing bulky and heavy items higher in your pack and close to your body and centre of gravity. I don’t disagree but all a bit dull really. Pack efficiently, leave as few gaps as possible and keep items you will need most readily to the top or nearer the outside of you pack for easier access. Of course you can strap additional stuff to the bottom or the outside of your pack. I regularly do this with either a tent or with a long drybag packed with my additional clothing. However, once you have crockery, camera equipment, stuffed animals and other miscellaneous household items clipped or tied to the outside of your pack, you have a fairly unstable load aside from the cacophony you are probably causing in the tranquil outdoors.
The single greatest thing about your pack that affects your ability to run is bounce. By bounce, I mean movement in general, either up and down or from side to side as you run. Virtually every pack that seems fine and comfortable as you walk becomes a very different beast once you start to run. A bouncing pack saps the spring from your step, reduces your forward momentum and sooner or later it will seek out places on your body and rub them raw. My opinions are coloured by the fact that my tolerance for pack movement is as close to zero as it might reasonably be. I might even be unreasonable in my expectations, but I know what I want and what I won’t put up with and this is the single biggest reason why I will not use a number of packs which are otherwise popular with other people.
Some fastpacks come in different sizes and some are now gender-specific which is overdue but very welcome. Make sure you get the right size. Some have adjustable back panels which you can experiment with. Some have more padding on the back panel or on the straps than others. Personally, I would rather have more padding at the expense of a little extra base weight. Some packs still have a waist belt. For me, this is definitely a requirement in a larger capacity pack as it really helps to stabilise the pack and reduce movement. I have yet to try a race-vest style fastpack without a waist belt that didn’t move too much. Even some of the vest-style packs with a waist belt move far too much for my liking. I have sold several packs for this reason alone despite them having other excellent features. The other important feature I now look for every time is the ability to cinch the top of the pack down to the pack straps at the shoulders. This really reduces bounce and movement and works to prevent the pack from slipping gradually downwards with movement and gravity. Don’t be afraid to cinch all straps and belts up nice and tight. It might seem uncomfortable at first but by minimising movement you will be grateful in the longer term.
You won’t thank me for elaborating further so I’ll leave it there. However, I do strongly suggest that if you have the opportunity before you commit to a purchase, try on a pack for fit and try to do it laden if you possibly can. Either that or borrow one from a friend to try.
I’ll give you a whistle-stop tour of some of the packs I like and some I have tried and don’t rate quite so highly. The theme here is that newer is not always better. Of all the packs I have used or tried, these are my personal favourites. I still use them all and will continue to do so until they are done.
Raidlight Ultra Raid 30
Raidlight Ultra Legend 30
Raidlight Ultra Legend 20
Montane Ultra Tour 40
The North Face Trail Lite 36
The following are in the category of those packs that I will still use but probably for a single night trip only. Those with an asterisk I would be reluctant to use laden to their full capacity. I may yet dispose of them.
Montane Trailblazer 30
Salomon Peak 20
Salomon Peak 30
Instinct Alpi 40*
OMM Phantom 25
Raidlight Ultralight 24L*
For those perhaps surprised that there are no Ultimate Direction fastpacks on either list, it is not a mistake. I have very briefly used two and sold them both. Great for storage and fluid carrying but hideous to run with, in my humble opinion of course.
Pack Weight
How much should my pack weigh? The big question, unfortunately with no easy answer. I’ll tell you what I think but I think most others would also be somewhere in the same ballpark.
For a single overnight fastpack, regardless of season, I try and keep my pack weight under an 8kg maximum, including fluids (usually up to 1.2 litres). I can usually manage about 7kg without too much difficulty. In good warm weather with no tent and no stove I can get my packed weight down to about 5-6kg. The difference in weight is purely attributable to lighter sleeping gear and fewer or lighter additional clothing layers.
A self-sufficient multi-day outing generally just adds more food. Your other essential items never really change that much other than by season. When I did the Mountain Ultra stage race last year my pack started with five days of food, albeit no stove. The food (about 4kg) brought my pack weight up to about 11.5kg which was still much lighter than some but really pushing the envelope of what I could run well with. The good news is that you eat your way through that extra weight although I didn’t really notice the difference until about day 4!
Sleeping Bags & mats
There is a lot that can be discussed where sleeping bags are concerned but I’ll keep it as concise as I can.
Down Vs Synthetic
There are some great synthetic sleeping bags out there but if you want maximum warmth for lowest weight and packed size, down wins every time. Synthetic bags with an equivalent warmth rating are pretty much without exception bulkier and heavier than their down counterpart.
Yes, synthetic fillings still provide good insulation even when wet and down does not but there are few excuses for allowing a down bag to get wet to that extent if at all. Always compress your down bag into a drybag or use a drybag as second container. The same applies to down jackets. Alternatively, you can use a larger, reliable drybag as a pack liner but there is a lot to be said for the peace of mind of having your sleeping bag in its own quality drybag. Many good drybags now come in various sizes and have compression straps to really cinch down the packed size of your bag.
I do often use a synthetic bag, a Marmot Nanowave 35, as it does pack reasonably small and I don’t worry so much about using a liner as I can periodically throw it in the washing machine. Of course you can do the same with a down bag but they are more fragile and washing them is a bit more of a process if you want to do it properly and preserve your bag. It is a good idea then to consider a little extra weight and use a liner. Silk liners are the lightest and most packable.
Temperature ratings
OK, first the science bit. Sleeping bags are mostly temperature-rated in accordance with EN 13537/ISO 23537 standards. Fascinating and the end of the science bit.
Seriously though, the standards do provide a reasonable guide as to what to expect from a sleeping bag. How they actually perform is a much more complex thing as it depends on variables such as gender, body composition, what you wear inside the bag, liner or no liner and the most important, are you a warm or a cold sleeper?
Personally, I am a cold sleeper and my experience with bags is to look at the comfort and lower limit rating and add about 5 degrees C to each. That even takes into account that I am always wearing layers inside the sleeping bag, sometimes even including a down or insulated jacket. However, if you are carrying additional layers to put on once you have stopped running for the day, take advantage of that if it allows you to take a lighter sleeping bag than you otherwise might.
Only you can work out how any sleeping bag works for you. That said, a cold night is rarely a good night.
If you are looking at bags, there are other considerations aside from the temperature rating. I am on the cusp between regular and long bags. Regular bags are of course shorter but also lighter and pack slightly smaller. No surprise there. You can also opt for left or right zip but who really cares about that? Look of course at the weight of the bag and the packed dimensions. The latter are very important to the fast packer.
Sleeping Mats
Some fast packers don’t use one. They have accustomed themselves to the hard ground and forsake the comfort for a lighter pack.
Other use simple foam pads, often cut simply to support the back and upper body.
Most people however are prepared to accept some additional weight and bulk to take a full-length sleeping mat. I am one of those people.
Mat technology has moved on considerably and there are countless options to choose from. Most important aside from weight and packed size is the R-Value. This is the temperature rating system for mats based on how much insulation they are deemed to provide, especially when placed onto a cold surface. I never used to pay this much attention, but I am converted to its importance having now tried mats at each end of the R-value spectrum. The difference is considerable and this has a knock-on impact on how effectively your sleeping bag will perform.
For lightweight, warmer weather fastpacks I am a huge fan of the Alpkit Numo. Well priced by comparison and fantastic cushioning and comfort for its packed size and weight, in my opinion. I now have a couple of options for colder temperatures also, but they are not cheap.
I look for a quiet mattress as some of the insulated ones in particular can be very noisy and I honestly don’t know how people sleep on them. I once had a very poor sleep on a campsite in Braemar due to the mattress the guy in the adjacent tent was using. The whole night it sounded like a hippo rolling about on a bouncy castle filled with crisp packets.
Pillows are a luxury for some. There are some really lightweight inflatable ones that roll up to nothing when deflated. I carry one every time. Others stuff a garment or a drybag with spare clothes. Do whatever works for you and always remember that everything weighs something and adds to the total weight.
Clothing
Much of this will not be new or surprising so I’ll keep it short. Aside from your sleeping kit you still need to carry clothing appropriate for variables during your run/fastpack as well as whatever layers you need to be comfortable overnight once you have stopped. Only you can decide what this requires dependent on all of the route, accommodation and climate variables we have already considered.
Unless your forecast is absolutely reliable, you can’t forego appropriate waterproof clothing but bear in mind that your waterproofs can also double as an insulating or windproof layer once stopped.
The same advice applies as for the outdoors and trail running in general. Synthetic wicking fabrics and layers are best with the exceptions of merino and/or down for the evening. The same principles apply as with your sleeping bag. Use good drybags and keep your additional clothing dry at all costs. Experiment to see what items of clothing provide the best warmth at the lowest weight and volume.
Miscellaneous Items
The following is a guide but not an exhaustive list of other items that are either essential or might improve your experience.
- Headtorch
- Mobile Phone
- Lightweight groundsheet
- Power bank
- Insect net
- First Aid kit
- Foil blanket or emergency bivy (if you are not already carrying sleeping gear)
- Trowel and toilet kit
- Very basic personal hygiene items
- Hiking/running poles (I’ve heard that some people actually use these. Whatever next!)
Some fastpackers really strip back their kit to the absolute minimum. However, don’t feel guilty for allowing yourself one or two ‘luxury’ or comfort items that might add a little weight to your pack but which for you as an individual, enhance the overall experience. That could be a small wash kit, a small air pump for your mat or it could be your Kindle, for example.
In later blog posts I may well include some gear lists when reporting on future fastpacking trips. Meantime, there are lots to be found online in written or video format. It is also worth looking at the mandatory kit lists for any multi-stage races that are staged in a similar climate or environment to one in which you might be planning to fastpack. They will provide a really good guide on the type and standard of kit assessed to be the minimum required for a safe, albeit not luxurious experience.
Fitness, Training & Safety
Fitness & Training
I am not a running coach, nor do I have any qualifications related to sports science or anything remotely associated with running. I do not have a running coach. The following are just a few general tips based on my own experience.
Covering long distance over potentially rough or mixed terrain and elevations, at the same time running where possible with a pack that could weigh up towards 10kg, is stressful for the body, even if you are an experienced trail runner. Even with the best of intentions, a heavier pack can also take some of the spring out of your step and change your running style. The additional weight places additional strain on muscles, tendons and joints and this can be magnified by steep uphill and downhill.
Whilst there is no accepted distance that qualifies for a fastpack, we have established two things. Firstly, a trip is likely to be over at least two separate days, often with a fairly short recovery period between runs. Secondly, the essence of fastpacking is to cover a reasonable distance. Not all trail runners are necessarily ultra runners, so those people need to think about their experience and physical resilience if they haven’t previously run longer distances over consecutive days. The same would be true of anyone planning to participate in a stage or multi-day event for the first time. Don’t let your first fastpack be the first time you have tried to string successive ten to thirty mile days together. Go out and try it first without a heavy pack and work up to the weight carrying. Try your full pack on a short run first to test your packing methods, fit and comfort before you head out with it into the middle of nowhere.
If you do not regularly run or train on hilly or mountainous terrain, consider doing so or build in other training that will strengthen your legs through ascent and descent training if you don’t have easy access to the hills. Even the gym can provide some valuable strength and endurance training aside from any weight training you might do for your running. I have had some strange looks in the past while training on the gym stairmaster with a full pack.
Whilst a lot of runners do build some weight training into their training, it tends to be more lower body training. Consider some appropriate core and upper body strength training too. It will improve your ability and stamina to run and power-hike with a heavier pack.
Lastly, don’t go crazy the first couple of times you head out to fastpack. Keep the distance reasonable and well within your ability, test your kit and technique thoroughly and as I keep saying, enjoy it!
Safety
If you have already read my post on route selection, I talk there about route selection and navigation. Ensure you have a reliable means of navigating your chosen route and if that involves an electronic or digital device, have a contingency for that device failing. Make sure your devices have sufficient power.
As per all good hillwalking or backcountry advice, tell someone where you are going and what your itinerary is particularly if you are going solo.
Make sure you have the appropriate clothing for whatever weather might arise. Don’t omit essentials just to save weight.
Whether train running or fastpacking anywhere away from populated areas, I always carry a first aid kit. It doesn’t have to be fancy and you can tailor the contents according to the location and nature of your trip. Once again, mandatory race kit lists can be helpful in giving you some tips on what to include in a basic first aid kit. I also keep a Petzl E-lite in my first aid kit so I know I will never be stranded without a basic light.
Not such an issue in the UK but know any wildlife risks that might exist and have any appropriate kit for your safety. In North America that might mean a bear spray. In Scotland it means a midge net! A tick removal tool is also a prudent addition to a trail running first aid kit.
Lastly, what are your options if the worst-case scenario occurs and you are lost, injured or otherwise immobilised in an isolated location? This is an even more important consideration if like me, you go out on your own most if not all the time. I must confess I have been somewhat blasé about this in the past and aside from myself, I know of at least one other person who would care if I didn’t come back. I do now have a satellite handheld device because I will need one for some things I have planned in the future, but I have also now acquired a basic InReach subscription for the device. Yet more expense but for me it is worth it for the better peace of mind.
This concludes what has turned out to be a fairly extensive series of posts about fastpacking. I you already participate or are thinking of giving fastpacking a go, I hope you have found something to think about or to help inform your own planning. Comments or queries on any of the posts are welcome and feel free to contact me if you have any more specific questions or issues you think I might be able to help with.